-- Fireworks over the yacht harbor, Julio Iglesias warbling in the open-air theater, superchef Alain Ducasse preparing meals on an outdoor terrace overlooking the Mediterranean--it doesn't get more chic than this in the European holiday month of August. The supermodels are dancing till dawn at Jimmy'z--the Studio 54 of the Riviera--but you'll look in vain for a high-roller at the Casino of Monte-Carlo.
Outside the Casino of Monte-Carlo, clustered around the fountain like gawkers at a traffic accident, are 50 or 60 backpackers and tourists, most of them American, staring toward the grand marbled steps of the world's most beautiful gambling palace, waiting, chattering, looking for . . . what?